My Great Alaskan Adventure - Friday, July 4

My sis and I stayed up for the weak showing of fireworks at 12:01am (it was put up by the city). Blah blah blah. God bless America.

Went to Sea Bean internet café early that morning, partly so my sis could finish the homework for her community college class, and partly so we could get a good parking spot in anticipation of the frenzy that would occur downtown that day. Basically, it was the grueling and super steep 3.1-mile Mount Marathon race that took place every Fourth of July in Seward. It is not glamorous like the New York Marathon or as arduous as the Iron Man, but it was something that many Alaskans participated in for pride and community. The winners typically completed the race in around 45 to 50 minutes.

To be honest, we ended up not really taking part in the festivities that took place. I heard the cheers for the start of the race from the comfort of Sea Bean and occasionally popped my head out to check out the activities. I think I just needed a short breather from the non-stop activities of the past few days, and also wanted to write my blog (just for you, my faithful reader). The only other exciting thing that happened that morning also involved cops (though my sister and I didn’t summon them this time) with some crazy guy trying to steal about $5 worth of coffee from Sea Bean.

For lunch, we went to this diner that locals refer to as the “train wreck”, where they specialize in all sorts of unhealthy breakfast foods and burgers. It was literally a bunch of old railway carts put together that formed the diner and the adjacent accommodation quarters (called Whistle Stop). My black and blue burger was super delicious – juicy beef patty with Cajun sauce and blue cheese. Mmm. Sustenance for the hike that I was to take later that afternoon.

Early afternoon, we ventured back to the Exit Glacier to attempt the Harding Ice Field trail. Basically, the hike follows the Exit Glacier up to the Harding Ice Field (which is the glacier’s source). And in fact, I believe that Harding Ice Field is the source for seven or eight of the other glaciers in the area – Bear, Holgate, Ailik… The hike was labeled strenuous - about 3.86 miles one way, steep and slipper ascent. I was ready.

My sister left me at about the 1 hr 11 min mark, as she was feeling sick, cold, and not dressed in proper hiking gear for the ice. When we set off that day, I thought I would hike up for two hours and then head back down. But the higher I got, the more spectacular the scenery got. It started with pretty streams and and rapids but then turned into snow and ice at the higher altitudes. I couldn’t resist and kept pressing on. My breath was getting short, the air was getting thinner, and the path got really narrow at some points (only one foot could be planted on at any one time). Being rather risk-averse, I kept thinking about what would happen if I slipped off the path or fell into a crevasse. I almost gave up at one point, except that I met a man who said, you have to go to the top. It’s beautiful. He gave me a cheeky wink and said, besides, the fun is in getting down.

What was amazing, which I have never experienced in my many years of city life, was that for what seemed like miles and miles, there was absolutely no one. It was just me and the mountains. I might’ve met the occasional climber every 45 minutes or so, but for the most part, I was in complete solitude. I think this was the only moment in my entire life that I can remember being all alone and truly enjoying the calm. I marveled that I could actually hear the sound of my own thoughts. Thighs burning, feet aching, why didn’t I wear thicker socks, hmm what excuse should I make up for being more than 3 hours late in meeting my sister at the base, and oh, I really ought to do my laundry the minute I arrive at my apartment, my clothes are starting to smell a little funny, and blah blah blah, some important thoughts on life. I could walk as fast or as slow as I wanted, slip on the ice and pick myself up and never feel like I have to justify why I slipped, crack a really bad tune and not have to apologize, or simply stop to admire the beauty surrounding me. It was absolutely lovely.

From the top, I honestly could not tell where the ice field started and ended. It was expansive, HUGE. There were also so many mountains surrounding me and clouds swirling above and around their peaks. There were even really pretty and brightly colored flowers growing upon some of the exposed rock on the ridges. So there I was, 3,200 feet above sea level, having hiked 3.86 miles in just under three hours, standing above what was the start of a 300-square-mile ice field. The chills I felt were not from the cold but from the beauty of my surroundings because in fact, I was standing at the top of the trail in a mere cotton t-shirt and thin track pants.

The man was right. Going down was pretty damn exciting. I couldn’t fathom walking down the way that I came up (the hike was long and very steep at some parts). Instead, I decided to slide down some of the paths just because it was simply that steep. Wheee! Completed about 7.72 miles (well, a little less if you count the shortcuts I took on the way down) in 4 hours 56 minutes.

For our Fourth of July celebrations, we made reservations for a highly recommended restaurant at the small boat harbor called Ray’s Waterfront. Timing, once again, was impeccable. Completed Harding Ice Field hike and made it right in time for dinner (albeit arriving in slightly damp, muddy attire). Split two really amazing halibut dishes – the Halibut Andaman (fresh halibut filet in a macadamia nut crust with sweet lime chili sauce) and Fresh Alaskan Halibut Oscar (baked with a crab filling and served with fresh hollandaise sauce butternut squash whipped potatoes and fresh asparagus spears). In my books – two thumbs up!